Thursday 29th May

Arrived Santa Monica separately by accident as got separated in the traffic! Not as bad as we feared though, the day started with us meeting up with John and Max in Rialto, coming in on old 66 as far as we could, but we were running out of time to make it and return the bikes on the same day. so took the option of speeding up the process and went in the last few miles by Interstate - well, we did, but somehow J and M ended up doing all the old 66 down Sunset and Santa Monica Boulevards! We had the quick, scary and uninteresting route while they had the comfortable easy but slow route. After we met up, took bikes back to Eagle Rider - they hung on for us and after much discussion (reasons for all that later) we finally caught a cab to pick up our hire car. Arrived tired and road weary on the Queen Mary about 7.30pm. Dinner on board and early to bed as totally kn.........d!

Wednesday 28th May

Left Barstow on 66 towards Helendale, Oro Grande and Victorville. The route was not as we expected at all - all sand and non-existant places, just little groups of low grade housing. Oro Grande is very disappointing, industrial cement works marr the area. Lots of closed up shops etc.
Victorville wasn't too successful as missed 66 cafe and the museum was closed, so carried on to Apple Valley for coffee. Separated here, we went on up to Big Bear Lake and J and M went on to Rialto and the Wigwams.

Saturday 24th and Sunday 25th May

Two days spent exploring Las Vegas and the various casino attractions, we went to see 'KA' the Cirque de Soleil at MGM - it was brilliant. Travelled on the monorail a lot - but funnily enough the entrances are always right at the back of every casino and no exit signs were in sight! Waited to see the Sirens at TI show, but due to high (not really) winds the show was cancelled - we were all very disappointed, so went back to Hotel and went up to the 107th floor for a cocktail or two!

Friday 23rd may

Left Laughlin separately, John and Max going via the I95 and us the I93 - this was deliberate! We both encountered horrendous cross-winds and neither road had any services for miles and miles! By the time we reached the Hoover Dam we were virtually running on air. The terrain was mainly flat and scrubby, we were between two mountain ranges but they provided no shelter from the wind, in fact they probably made it worse. We rode over the dam, I jumped off to take photos and the plan was to meet Mick on the other side - this proved to be impossible as you are not permitted to do what I did (no wonder I got strange looks) and there is NO dropping off, picking up or crossing of the barriers permitted AT ALL and UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!!! A friendly security man pointed this out to me after I had been spotted on camera trying to break the law! We were lucky not to get a fine, but fortunately although the bike was on camera, we had no registration plates as it was a brand new bike! Lucky eh?
The wind and the unexpected drop-offs stopped John and Max on the other side of the dam, so we met up with them there and as it was about to bucket down, stopped for lunch. A wise decision as it absolutely threw it out of the sky for some time.
We continued to Las Vegas together, but after getting lost and losing each other, we went to Harley Davidsons to get the bike checked out and John and Max continued to the hotel, where we met up at almost the same time. The Stratosphere was ok, huge and very noisy, but....when in Rome. Lugged all the bags into hotel, we have more than we started with - its all those t-shirts the boys insist on buying. We, on the other hand, have been really good and not bought a thing - well, not much anyway! Ours take up less room.

Thursday 22nd May

Separated after breakfast, J and M going to Oatman via the I40 and us going up and over the moutains (!) via Sitgreaves Pass. Riding out over the desert felt like you were riding to the end of the world as the road seemed to go straight into the mountains. Lots of abandoned RV's and mobile homes (people buy them on retirement, then no one wants them and so they eventually are claimed by the desert). We stopped at Cool Springs - the retired sailor who runs it was interesting to talk to so we stayed ages. Fresh coffee too. The road from here on in got more and more twisty, uneven and higher - to take my mind off the drops I filmed the ride! It was a really fantastic road though, Mick loved it. The views from Sitgreaves Pass itself were fantastic, you could see for miles and miles. Carried on down into Oatman, where J and M were waiting. Their ride from Oatman was pleasant down the I40, the road to Oatman became a bit twisty, but there were no drop-offs so JC was ok! Had lunch in the Oatman Hotel where Clark Gable and Carole Lombard stayed on their wedding night. The room looks the same - very tiny and no bathroom. The walls of the restaurant and bar area are covered in dollar bills - proper currency all signed by their donators. Bought yet more 66 t-shirts! Stroked the burros, who are quite friendly but very stubborn - if they are in the doorway and they don't want to move - they don't! They have access to just about all of the town. Watched a gunfight - again and also said goodbye to the AMA group, who were heading direct to Barstow.
We took a really pretty rocky route towards Laughlin, breezy again but bearable. Checked into the Aquarius Hotel - our first sight of a full-on Casino. Rooms very good, nice views over the Colorado River. Wandered along by the river and tried a small gamble in the Edgewater Casino.
Lost -of course!

Wednesday 21st May

Breakfast at Route 66 cafe before leaving williams for kingman. Dry but very blustery, lovely stretch of road. Went on Interstate 40 as far as Ash Fork, then switched to old 66. Crosswinds all the way, desert and juniper trees were our backdrop for the morning. Stopped at Seligman for coffee at the Snowcap (loos very intresting), old 66 frontier town, full of 66 memorabilia shops and tourists - lots of Japanese taking photos of everything. Continued on to Peach Springs, there was no let up from the buffeting wind - great clumps of tumbleweed were flying everywhere, one struck my boot - glad it wasn't my leg! Scenery mostly desertlike and very flat. Had lunch at only eating place in Peach Springs - the Hulapai Lodge. Short ride to Route 66 cafe at Truxton, where we couldn't resist sharing their home made cheesecake! 25 miles further on, after riding through some lovely rocky terrain, we stopped at Hackberry Stores where we bumped into the AMA group again (first seen at Meteor Crater). They were also staying in Kingman that night. Hackberry is very interesting, lots of old retro photos, furniture and 66 stuff. Maxine got the lo-down from an old lady who seemed to know all there was to know! Road into Kingman was wide open desert with scrub again, as ever we were accompanied by the railroad. The flatland is surrounded by fantastic purple mountains and the town sits in the middle. Stayed same place as AMA group and had really good Chinese for dinner - as recommended by their tour guide, Frank.

Tuesday 20th May

Went to station, got tickets luckily and after breakfast watched gunfight before boarding train. JC not feeling on top of the world. Air conditioned carraiges luckily, trip took 2 and a quarter hours to the Canyon, we had entertainment on the way. Pleasant views from both sides, but nothing spectacular and no wildlife to be seen - again.
Our first view of the Canyon was quite overwhelming - its hard to believe its real! It's just SO vast. Took various photos and filmed a bit, but as the Canyon suffers from air pollution (genuinely) the view is a bit hazy. After lunch Maxine, Vanessa and Mick took a rim walk, while JC relaxed with his paper reading up on the Canyon facts. The walk was a wee bit strenuous, we were racing against time as you only have 3hrs to see and do everything (impossible) before the train leaves again at 4pm. Caught the shuttle bus back to the train depot to save time. Once back on the train we were entertained again and got held up by outlaws! So the railway employees got their tip one way and another. Engine overheated as there were extra carriages put on, so we ground to a halt and waited for a rescue engine to come out and bring us home.
Once back we rushed to the laundrette (exciting or what) and had dinner in between washing and drying cycles. We know how to have a good time! Early to bed, tried to do Blog without success.

Monday 19th May

Breakfast at Joe and Aggies retro 50's cafe- John just had to have the chilli breakfast burrito. We opted out. The family themselves were happily tucking into their breakfast of doughnuts smothered with pink icing and hundreds and thousands. They were quite a large family. Countryside changes west of Holbrook becoming flatter again, rocky outcrops and dried up river beds. Stopped in Winslow for coffee and photos at 'Standing on the Corner' statue. Countryside changes again after Winslow becoming more forest like, the ride to Flagstaff from Winona (where we stopped to fill up) is very pretty with pine trees, rocky outcrops and the ever present backdrop of the snow capped mountains. Lovely fresh air. Stopped in Flagstaff for a quick lunch before setting off for Sedona. Lovely ride down the 89a to Oak Creek Canyon, we continued down through the canyon to Sedona, but J and M went via the interstate. Met back up in Sedona, lovely town with the most fantastic backdrop of huge red cliffs and outcrops (like Monument Valley). Went separate ways back up to Flagstaff, met up at Parks for a quick drink then into Williams for our two night stop. Found Hotel and checked in - at last a town with night life! Made a fortunate discovery in that we had gained an hour the day before and not even noticed, so that was a plus. BUT then found out that we didn't have the Grand Canyon Railway tickets booked that we thought we had - so will have to wait until 8am tomorrow and go in person to the station. Went out for what turned out to be a very late night - boys thoroughly enjoyed themselves as no riding tomorrow. Was a bit difficult to find the correct code combination on the keypad at the hotel - our excuse is there was no light! Mick then had the brainwave of using his mobile phone as a light which worked, we didn't fancy waking the owner at 1.30am!

Sunday 18th May

Left El Rancho after a late and expensive breakfast, to make the detour to Window Rock home of the Navajo Nation. Great photo opp. plus bought some hand made navajo jewellery. Took highway 12 down to the Interstate 40 again, managed to take a slight detour somewhere and ended up doing a 3 mile stretch of dirt track which according to the maps doesn't exist! This was VERY interesting! Saw gophers scattering out of our way as we passed. Thought we'd better rejoin main road asap, stopping in Chambers for lunch. As it was Sunday not much else was open so we missed the route 66 diner. Took a long detour through the Painted Desert (fantastic coloured rock formations) and then the Petrified Forest not quite what we imagined as there is not much actual forest left, seems to have been 'spirited away' for various commercial reasons! Making jewellry being one. Absolutely nothing to be seen for miles on the road between the end of the Petrified Forest and Holbrook, our overnight stop. As it was very very hot, we were extremely thirsty when we arrived - a stop at the local Safeway was a must.
Stayed in teepees overnight (with mod cons), actually quite sweet.

Saturday 17th May

Left 9.15, J and M went via interstate 25 to Albuquerque and we travelled the Turquoise Trail, as in the Wild Hogs movie. The road was fantastic, gentle curves and rises, scrubby vegetation and red rocks. Stopped in Madrid, quite hippified but cute in a kitschy way. Main problem was only loos available were elsan toilets (YUK!), worse than France, but needs must! The road continued in the same way until we met up with the highway and then rode right through Albuquerque, no problem as we had an unofficial police escort! Met up with J and M at Route 66 Casino, where we had lunch. Couldn't take any piccs unfortunately as not allowed. Shame as the decor was totally OTT Route66 stuff!
J and M's ride via Intrstate was uneventful but they still had good views from both sides.
Stopped at Continental Dive for a mid afternoon break, much needed as it was now very hot with no wind - for a change. Although we did have a few spots of rain just for a few minutes. Stunning scenery, red rocky outcrops and bluffs, gulches and wide open flatlands. Not much of a population between Albuquerque and Gallup, we kept company with the Santa Fe Railway much of the time. Longest train we saw was 127 freight trucks with 2 containers on each. About a mile long. Stopped in Gallup overnight at the El Rancho Hotel. Several Hollywood filmstars stayed there while filming (yonks back), we had the Spencer Tracy room and John and Maxine had Errol Flynn's.
There was a graduation celebration going on so we had live country music in the bar that night.

Friday 16th May

Woke up to blue skies - hooray! Day off from the bikes in Santa Fe, wandered around the market place and shops, lots of pretty adobe buildings. Hired a car for the afternoon and went out to Bandolier National Park and Los Alamos. JC not too keen on the drops, so sat very quietly in the back! Went to Cowgirl Bar/Grille for dinner, where there was supposed to be music, but we were too early. We tried to go on an evening trip on the Santa Fe Railway but it was cancelled due to lack of numbers. Relaxed in Hotel (Inn of the Governors) bar and decided to have a fairly early night as up early again tomorrow for the ride down to Albuquerque via the Turquoise Trail.

Thursday 15th May

Left Blue Swallow for santa fe going via highway 104 as recommended by Bill. Supposed to be a prettier route and safer, but it was raining as we left and it just got worse and worse! The higher we climbed, the colder it was and the rain turned to hail. We were the only ones out in it and just prayed we didn't break down or there was a thunderstorm. We had to stop after 4o miles as we were so cold, no cafe so stopped at post office in the middle of nowhere. The postmistress not only gave us permission to stay and thaw out, but made us hot chocolate to boot! Reluctantly we put our wet gear back on and returned to the open (very) road. The second half was even worse than the first, the wind getting ever stronger, so had the chill factor aswell, the temperature was 0 deg.c! We had b een told there were no drop offs, so JC would be ok, but, lo and behold around a tight bend there was a wall of rock with hairpins winding up and rocks strewn in the middle of the roadway. JC was not a happy bunny! We made it though, but very slowly. To reach the top was a relief. We continued on (no choice) to Las Vegas NM for a lunch stop. Went into Dick's Deli, which was absolutely brilliant - they happily let us drip all over their floor and bar stools! We had one of the best meals we have had so far.
Girded our loins for the last 60 miles to Santa Fe, luckily the weather had improved marginally and so the last bit wasn't that bad in comparision. Arrived at the hotel in time for afternoon tea and sherry - how very English!
Discovered the cocktail bar and settled in for the evening! We really, really deserved it, trust us!
It was a pity the weather was so bad that we couldn't take photos or film of the stunning scenery we passed through. Just like the western movies of old, you could easily imagine the Indians looking down from the bluffs onto the Cavalry (us) as they passed below across the plains.

Wednesday 14th May

Woke up to rain,cloud and cold. Stopped at Adrian Mid Point cafe just 14 miles later for a much needed pit stop. Discovered Carol had been in the previous day.Had a look at Glenrio, totally deserted little town now as bi passed by route 40, wandered around the old motel now populated by rabbits and tumbleweed. Very sad. Had to back track to I40 as 66 disappeared into a mud track and not suitable for bikes, especially hired! Struggled on in the wind and rain to San Jon, where we hid again for a while. Decided to brave it, but no sooner had we left it began in earnest again. Time changed as we crossed the state line, so we had longer to relax in Tucumcari, not that ther's much there,but we badly needed to get off the bikes, out of the weather and do our laundry! Stayed at the Blue Swallow, Bill kindly the put the heating back on for us. Just as well as launderette dryers are useless and we had to festoon the room with damp washing! It resembled a chinese laundry in view and temperature. Lots of motels in Tucumcari, all old style, some rundown and some closed down. Not much else funnily enough. There used to be 30,000 residents now its down to 3500. Mexican for dinner and so to bed....

Monday 12th May

Quick breakfast, off to El Reno Fort on 66, missed turn and ended up doing a 10 mile loop going back via the hotel in oder to start again! Not much of interest at the Fort, stopped at Cherokee Trading Post, bumped into Carol again. Very windy and quite scary as the gusts threaten to take you off. Drove onto Hydro to take photos of the old Lucilles and then onto the new oner for lunch, where we met up with another Eagle Rider group (from Belgium). The owner of Lucille's showed us around the place and suggested we stay overnight, but we really needed to push on while it was dry. Stopped at Route 66 Museum in Clinton, bumped into Carol yet again! Then we followed the old route into Erick where we spent an entertaining hour with Harley and Annabelle! What a mad pair, they finished off with a rendition of 'Get Your Kicks", you will have to see the video to believe it! Lovely ride down the old route, but still very windy. Managed to avoid large snake warming itself on the concrete, spotted an armadillo and a baby turtle by the roadside. Stayed overnight at Shamrock, dinner at the local 'family restaurant' was a nightmare - we waited an hour to be served only to discover that they had lost the order, there was no more jacket potatoes or mash, just b......y fries! When it finally arrived it was at best unappetising, but we were so hungry (and there being no other options in Shamrock) we ate it anyway and got a reduction.

Sunday 11th May

Got ready for an early start as we had lots of mile to catch up from the day before. We had discovered that the tornado hit just a couple of miles from where we had been holed up, the neighbouring town of Picher was virtually destroyed and many lives were lost. The devastation we witnessed as we rode past was quite alarming and we just could not believe how lucky we had been to be in the right place at the right time, for once!
Managed to get to Tulsa by midday, had lunch in Kellyville. Our waitress Tracy, loved our accents and kept us talking just so she could listen to it.
Stopped at Arcadia to look at the Round Barn, but as it was Sunday, this and other 66 attractions thus far were shut. Took interstate 40 to Yukon to make up the miles, quick stop for refreshments and then on round Oklahoma City to tackle the 'beltline' (think M25 at its worst) on a Sunday - if that was a typical Sunday, we didn't want to be there on a weekday! Managed to lose each other, but both knew where we were heading for so met up there. Stayed overnight in El Reno. This was our first totally dry, if breezy, day on the Road.

Saturday 10th May

left Springfield Mo in the wind and rain, stopped by Paris Springs to take photos of old gas station ,had coffee with the owner, Lena, who showed us their collected memorabilia. Stopped in Carthage for lunch in retro 60.s diner, weather now warm and sunny. Called in at WalMart in Joplin, bought bandanas, were warned by a fellow biker (local lady) to take cover if we heard the siren as this is a tornado warning. Went on to Galena, to 'Four Women on Route 66' store n cafe, which has a larger than life co-owner, they have big plans to rejuvenate the town. Met a lady called Carol who is also doing the route, on her own in a campervan. We stopped at the Eisler Brothers store in Riverton, where we chatted to the locals and Mr Eisler snr, looked at all the 66 stuff available. Went out to Rainbow Arch Bridge to take pics, a couple came out in their car especially to warn us that we had 30 minutes to take cover before a severe storm arrived. We will be forever grateful to them for their kindness. We made it into Baxter Springs just in time, the siren went off as we took shelter in the Cafe on Route 66, Mick and John took the bikes to the police station for safety and we stayed put. The wind increased, the rain changed to hail in far less than 30 minutes, car windscreens were smashed, windows, roofs and buildings were damaged. Hailstones were as big as 3 inches cubed (NO JOKE), they were battering the windows in the cafe so hard everyone took shelter at the back. We were very worried about the boys as we hadn't heard from them. Eventually the wind and rain abated enough for them to come out of hiding and rejoin us. The decision was taken to stay overnight at the Cafe which does B and B as bad weather was still forecast. Sat down for a meal and was joined by Carol who had been administering first aid to those caught in the storm at the local WalMart.

Friday 9th May

Day began with saying a sorry good bye to Dan who set off for his home in Pennsylvania, we will miss him, he was great company and gave us invaluable advice on how to use petrol pumps etc!
Stopped at Meramec Caverns, took tour, warmer and dryer underground than above! Good tour though. Stopped for coffee somewhere, not where we intended to be, but stuff happens.....
mainly on route 66 for the afternoon, not easy to follow the exact route. Saw some really pretty countryside, the Ozarks are very green and lush. Trailer trash abounds though, crap home but great trailer and truck! Eventually found hotel, ok, and they actually had real interent, not just WiFi, so been able to bring things up to date. No restaurant though, so walked to a diner almost next door (via a long detour). So another early night to prepare us for our 200 miles or so tomorrow.

Thursday 8th May

Took taxi to see Lincoln's Tomb as it was pouring with rain and too wet to get kitted up. Taxi there was ok with guided tour by the very helpful Erica, Springfield IL has some lovely buildings, especially the State Capitol. We couldn't get in contact with a taxi company for the trip back to the motel so started walking (we've done miles on foot so far this trip), spotted a taxi waiting in a service station, Mick risked life and limb to catch their attention by running across the road, and guess what? It WAS Erica - again! Bit of luck that as we had another guided tour on the return journey. Still raining when we left, plus windy to boot. First stop was for coffee at Lichfield, had a chat with some other bikers who were sheltering there too. As weather was so bad we opted to find the Chain of Rocks bridge if nothing else and forget St Louis and the Arch. Eventually found the bridge, not easy, walked across/over the Mississippi, had photos taken in Illinois and Missouri simultaneously as the state line goes through the bridge. Took 270 beltway around city, only had brief glimpse in the distance of the Arch. Found our way to overnight stop at St Clair. Cold, wet and tired, no time for relaxing as the only cafe shut at 8pm and no liquor license - not again! Mind you, great grub, so worth it. Early to bed as worn out, again!

Wednesday 7th May

Wet start to day, taxi booked didn't arrive and if it rains in Chicago, taxis vanish! Managed after long wait to snaffle one from someone else, met Dan at Eagle Riders and began the preparations for leaving. This took some while. Eventually we were all kitted up and ready to go by midday.
Slight hiccup, so had to have another bike, eventually left 3pm. Don't ask.
Weather cleared for first part of the run, then rain arrived and got heavier as the evening became darker. Not good. Arrived finally at Route 66 Motel 8pm, thanks to Dan's making a phone call to the hotel for direction. We were just in time to eat in the restaurant as they were waiting to close! Bed quite early as nought all elese to do. Interesting rooms, nice bedlinen though.

Tuesday 6th May

Up earlyish, breakfast by start of route 66, photos at Buckingham Fountain, lovely hot sunny day. Boys went off to buy Micks boots and sort out the bikes, and meet up with Dan (a guy he met in Daytona last year). Max and I went shopping and admiring architecture, met up with chaps for lunch, followed by a cocktail at the Hancock Tower on the 96th floor (YES! JOHN TOO!) fantastic views. After a quick spruce up we went off to Rosas Lounge for a blues evening - yes, well.....this proved to be in a seedy area and the taxi driver was none to happy about leaving us there, so gave us his number to come and collect us when we ready! It was ok actually, but we were all totally kn...d, so didn't stay that late, midnight, because we had a really early start the next day.

Monday 5th May

Day spent in New York, all went up Empire State (yes, INCLUDING John!). Delicious NYC deli lunch, back to hotel then to JFK for early evening flight to Chicago. Checkin was slow, security just like organised chaos. Lots of strict instructions, a bit like being arrested we imagine! Boarded plane, taxiied out, then Cleveland ATC lost all power so all west bound planes were grounded. Waited 2 hours onboard, plane bagan to taxi, then developed technical fault and we had to return to gate! Finally left 3hrs late. Luckily the flight was only 2hrs not 3, so with time change not too bad. Got to hotel midnight, bed at 1am. Good hotel, lovely room, got upgraded to Presidential Suites - big enough to live in, american fridge, dishwasher, two bathrooms etc.

Missouri

No internet access so this is coming via a brief text to our daughter...just leaving St Clair, Missouri hope to make Springfield tonight but weather not good, wet n windy, slow going.

New York

Friday evening, bit too tired to do much, so had dinnr locally (chinese) and a sort of early night. Saturday did lots of walking in the city, covering most of the main attractions, but couldn't do the Empire State as too cloudy (plus was blooming freezing all day!). Max and Ness seriously cold! Sunday hit town again, weathr improved greatly so sat in sun at Pier 17 for lunch, took ferry to Staten Island, watched thousands of mad cyclists finish a 45 mile ride at the ferry terminal! Evening spent in Times Square, today trying Empire State again, tonight off to Chicago.

contact numbers

hi all
john and i now have american phone numbers should you need to contact us the numbers are as follows
Mick and Vanessa 001 646 4699 631
John and Maxine 001 646 5091 587


Pete
sorry to here about sandy give her all our love our thoughts are with you both
love mick and vanessa

New York

Flight from France ok, hotel Arora in Crawley very plush and comfortable, flight to NY also fine got upgarded to extra leg room seats for free which was nice,weather in NY not to good overcast and cool, hotel a bit tired (like us) but ok for the price, about to go into manhatten now for thr day. Ema and Matt can you keep the nans updated as they have no computers ta x



Dan, got your number will call you in Chicago
regards
mick